The Dos and Don'ts of Men's Business Wear
By Zachry Brown (JGSM '10) & Wade Gibson (Guest Writer)
Issue date: 10/1/09 Section: Careers
In the world of first impressions, what you wear says a lot. In this edition, the Cornell Business Journal offers men's fashion tips for the office-the dos and don'ts of Corporate America. Like it or not, employers judge you for what you wear. Yes, it's classist and superficial; however, this is business school. Most men are not pulled aside and taught how to dress, and the people they look to for advice seldom have the faintest sense of office attire. Looking at fashion magazines is also counterproductive, since there is a disconnect between what one wears in the boardroom and in the Bowery. Business wear is simple, timeless, and understated.
Importantly, we are not pressuring you to spend more. We are asking you to spend smart and strategically. In fact, some people will judge you negatively for wearing more expensive things. The moment you wear a $3,000 Prada suit, they know you aren't part of the club. So, think about what image you want to convey. Brooks Brothers and J. Press invented American fashion, are unassailably correct, and make clothes that cost considerably less than European offerings. And if you want to spend a pretty penny, Hickey Freeman is a safe bet. A few classic suits are better than a closet full of trendy designers.
Shoes
No rubber-soled or square-toed dress shoes. Instead, invest in good leather-soled shoes. Alden and Allen Edmonds are storied American companies whose shoes will last a lifetime. Dress cowboy boots (stingray, crocodile, elephant, and ostrich) are acceptable with suits too…if you are from Texas.
Suits
No black suits. The last American to wear a black suit properly was Abraham Lincoln. It was a Brooks Brothers suit, and a man named John Wilkes Booth shot him in it. With Lincoln died the black suit in America. Plus, a dark navy suit is just as formal, complements more shirts and ties, and flatters more complexions.
No Men's Wearhouse suits. Would you want your girlfriend to wear dresses from the Dress Barn? No three-piece suits (unless you are a card-carrying member of AARP). No three-button suits (unless you're over 6'4" or the suit is a three-button sack). Two-button suits lengthen your torso and are proper in all circumstances. Lengthwise, the suit jacket should fall right past your first knuckles with your hands down to your side-no exceptions. Pinstripes are okay, but diversify your collection with windowpane and herringbone.
Shirts
No metallic shirts; in fact, no metallic anything. You are not Regis Philbin. No dark or shiny dress shirts-the office is not a Colombian discotheque. No black-on-black shirt-tie getups either.
Point collars go with suits and ties, not with jeans. Also, if your neck has grown larger than your shirt collar, buy new shirts or go to the gym. One or the other.
Accessories
If you are not an Arab sheikh or American rapper, do not bling your suit-small is the watchword for cufflinks, watches, tie bars, etc. Less is more.
Navy suit? Navy socks. Gray suit? Black or brown socks (with brown shoes). There are jean belts, and there are suit belts. Jean belts are wide; suit belts are thin. If your post-graduation job is not with Abercrombie & Fitch, ditch the hair gel-don't demean yourself with a "fohawk" either.
Ties
Important but tricky-consult a professional or a woman, but not a "professional" woman.
Next time: the debate about shawl-collar vs. peak-lapel tuxedos!
Importantly, we are not pressuring you to spend more. We are asking you to spend smart and strategically. In fact, some people will judge you negatively for wearing more expensive things. The moment you wear a $3,000 Prada suit, they know you aren't part of the club. So, think about what image you want to convey. Brooks Brothers and J. Press invented American fashion, are unassailably correct, and make clothes that cost considerably less than European offerings. And if you want to spend a pretty penny, Hickey Freeman is a safe bet. A few classic suits are better than a closet full of trendy designers.
Shoes
No rubber-soled or square-toed dress shoes. Instead, invest in good leather-soled shoes. Alden and Allen Edmonds are storied American companies whose shoes will last a lifetime. Dress cowboy boots (stingray, crocodile, elephant, and ostrich) are acceptable with suits too…if you are from Texas.
Suits
No black suits. The last American to wear a black suit properly was Abraham Lincoln. It was a Brooks Brothers suit, and a man named John Wilkes Booth shot him in it. With Lincoln died the black suit in America. Plus, a dark navy suit is just as formal, complements more shirts and ties, and flatters more complexions.
No Men's Wearhouse suits. Would you want your girlfriend to wear dresses from the Dress Barn? No three-piece suits (unless you are a card-carrying member of AARP). No three-button suits (unless you're over 6'4" or the suit is a three-button sack). Two-button suits lengthen your torso and are proper in all circumstances. Lengthwise, the suit jacket should fall right past your first knuckles with your hands down to your side-no exceptions. Pinstripes are okay, but diversify your collection with windowpane and herringbone.
Shirts
No metallic shirts; in fact, no metallic anything. You are not Regis Philbin. No dark or shiny dress shirts-the office is not a Colombian discotheque. No black-on-black shirt-tie getups either.
Point collars go with suits and ties, not with jeans. Also, if your neck has grown larger than your shirt collar, buy new shirts or go to the gym. One or the other.
Accessories
If you are not an Arab sheikh or American rapper, do not bling your suit-small is the watchword for cufflinks, watches, tie bars, etc. Less is more.
Navy suit? Navy socks. Gray suit? Black or brown socks (with brown shoes). There are jean belts, and there are suit belts. Jean belts are wide; suit belts are thin. If your post-graduation job is not with Abercrombie & Fitch, ditch the hair gel-don't demean yourself with a "fohawk" either.
Ties
Important but tricky-consult a professional or a woman, but not a "professional" woman.
Next time: the debate about shawl-collar vs. peak-lapel tuxedos!
Viewing Comments 1 - 2 of 2
dissertation editing
posted 1/10/10 @ 2:08 PM EST
I think that these pieces of advise are very helpful.
Hayabusa Clothing
posted 2/19/10 @ 12:03 AM EST
Great article. I certainly do agree on the ties. Ties are a big part in showing your professionalism. The best example is comparing two well suited men and one wearing a professional tie to match the suit and another wearing a tie with cartoon characters on. (Continued…)
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